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Quarterly of Applied Mathematics

Quarterly of Applied Mathematics

Online ISSN 1552-4485; Print ISSN 0033-569X

   
 
 

 

On the breaking of water waves on a sloping beach of arbitrary shape


Author: Morton E. Gurtin
Journal: Quart. Appl. Math. 33 (1975), 187-189
DOI: https://doi.org/10.1090/qam/99666
MathSciNet review: QAM99666
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Abstract: Greenspan [1] considered water waves of finite amplitude on a beach of constant slope. He proved that: ($\left ( {{G_1}} \right )$) A wave of elevation with nonzero slope at the front propagating shoreward into quiescent water always breaks before the shore.†($\left ( {{G_2}} \right )$) Under the same conditions a wave of depression never breaks.


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Article copyright: © Copyright 1975 American Mathematical Society