On the breaking of water waves on a sloping beach of arbitrary shape
Author:
Morton E. Gurtin
Journal:
Quart. Appl. Math. 33 (1975), 187-189
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.1090/qam/99666
MathSciNet review:
QAM99666
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Abstract | References | Additional Information
Abstract: Greenspan [1] considered water waves of finite amplitude on a beach of constant slope. He proved that: ($\left ( {{G_1}} \right )$) A wave of elevation with nonzero slope at the front propagating shoreward into quiescent water always breaks before the shore.†($\left ( {{G_2}} \right )$) Under the same conditions a wave of depression never breaks.
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Article copyright:
© Copyright 1975
American Mathematical Society